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The "Kumano Kodo" refers to ancient pilgrimage routes that spread across Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Osaka prefectures on the Kii-Peninsula. Among these, the Kii-Route is not registered as a World Heritage site but is recommended as a day trip trekking route in autumn and winter.
2025.02.05-
Table of Contents
- Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii-Mountain Range
- Kumano Kodo - Kii Road
- 1. Suzuki Residence
- 2. The Imperial Palace Lawn (Gosho-no-Shiba)
- 3. Kitsumoto Shrine
- 4-1. Enjoying Mikan
- 4-2. Chohoji Temple
- summary
Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii-Mountain Range
The Kumano area has long been considered one of Japan's premier power spots. The term "Kumano Kodo" collectively refers to the multiple pilgrimage routes leading from Kyoto and Osaka to the three grand shrines of Kumano.
The "Kumano Sanzan" or the "Three Grand Shrines of Kumano", are "Kumano Hayatama Taisha" (Shingu City), "Kumano Nachi Taisha" (Nachi-Katsuura Town), and "Kumano Hongu Taisha" (Tanabe City). The three shrines are the head of the approximately 3,000 Kumano shrines found through ought Japan.
On July 7, 2004, three sacred sites (Yoshino and Omine, Kumano Sanzan, and Koyasan), and pilgrimage routes (Kumano Pilgrimage Route, Omine Okugake Route, and Koyasan Pilgrimage Route) spanning Wakayama, Nara, and Mie prefectures were registered as UNESCO World Heritage (Cultural Heritage) under the same "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes" in the Kii-Mountain Range.
Kumano Kodo - Kii Road
This time, we will focus on a part of the Kii-Route from Fujishiro in Kainan City, known as the gateway to Kumano, to Arida City (from Kainan Station to Kii-Miyahara Station), which is famous nationwide for its mandarin oranges.
On this route, hikers will encounter Fujishiro-zaka, known as the first difficult pass of the Kumano Kodo. There are also scenic spots such as "Gosho no Shiba," praised as "the most beautiful scenery on the Kumano Kodo Road" in the "Kii-Province Famous Places Guide". Of course, don't miss the various attractions, including historic shrines that evoke a sense of history and farms and shops where you can enjoy delicious taste of the local specialty, mandarin oranges!
Below are some recommended spots.
Let's start from JR Kainan Station.
1. Suzuki Residence
The surname "Suzuki" is the second most common surname in Japan, used by approximately 2-million people. The birthplace of this surname is the "Suzuki Residence", located within the grounds of Fujishiro Shrine in Kainan City, Wakayama Prefecture.
The Suzuki clan was one of the three former Kumano families (powerful clans with great influence in the Kumano region of Kii Province). During the mid- to late Heian period, the clan migrated from Kumano to what is now Kainan City and continued for 122 generations.
Although the family has a long history, the house has been vacant since the head of the family passed away in 1942 (Showa 17). A movement to restore the Suzuki House began in 2013, and the restoration work is scheduled to be completed in 2023.
The Japanese garden can be viewed from the mansion's tatami room. This garden was once a cultural asset of Wakayama Prefecture as the "Former Suzuki Residence Garden," but is now part of a nationally designated historic site.
This stroll-style garden with a pond and a turtle island in the center is a recommended spot for garden lovers.
Before climbing Fujishirozaka, be sure to visit this place that has deep ties to people of the Suzuki clan all over the country.
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【 JR Kainan Station 】
↓ 1.0km, about 15 minutes
【 Kumano First Torii Site 】
↓ 1.0km, about 20 minutes
【 Suzuki Residence 】
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2. The Imperial Palace Lawn (Gosho-no-Shiba)
Once you reach the top of the long hill leading to the pass, you will finally see Gosho-no-Shiba, known as the most beautiful view on the Kumano road. Here you will find Jizomine-ji Temple, where a Jizo statue, affectionately known locally as "Jizo-san of the pass," is enshrined. Next to the temple is the remains of Fujishiro Toshita Oji, where a rest area has also been constructed.
The hill behind the temple is where Emperor Shirakawa (the 72nd Emperor) once stopped, and in the distance you can see the coastline stretching from Wakaura, Saikazaki, and Kada. Looking even further into the distance, you can see Awaji Island, Shikoku, and Rokko beyond the island of Tomogashima, making it an exceptional place with a spectacular view of the sea and mountains.
This scenery, which has captivated many people since the time of Emperor Shirakawa, continues to deeply move the hearts of visitors to this day.
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【 Suzuki Residence 】
↓ 0.5km, about 5 minutes
【 Tomb of Prince Arima 】
↓1.6km, about 40 minutes
【 Fujishiro Toshita Oji (Imperial Palace Lawn) 】
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3. Kitsumoto Shrine
It is said that the fruit "tachibana" first appeared in Japanese history during the Kofun period (mid-3rd century - around the 7th century), when the 11th Emperor, Emperor Suinin, ordered Tajimamori to search for the miraculous fruit that grants eternal youth and longevity, and brought it back from the land of Tokoyo.
It is said that the first Tachibana tree in Japan was planted at the former site of "Roppongi Hill," located north of the current Kitsumoto Shrine. This tachibana is the original species of the modern mandarin orange, and due to subsequent breeding improvements, the area is known as the birthplace of Japanese mandarins.
As the saying goes, "Tachibana is the best of sweets and loved by people," Kitsumoto Shrine is deeply revered by confectionery makers nationwide. Every year on the first Sunday of April, the "National Confectionery Dedication Festival (Kashi Matsuri)" is held, where confectionery makers from all over the country offer their sweets.
In addition, the annual Mikan Festival is held on the second Sunday of October, with citrus and fruit traders from inside and outside the prefecture, as well as local parishioners, gathering to pay their respects and enjoy traditional events such as the carrying of a portable shrine, lion dancing, and rice cake throwing.
Kitsumoto Shrine, with Tajimamori no Mikoto as the main deity, revered as the ancestor of citrus and confectionery industries and the god of culture, continues to preserve the history of fruit cultivation and the development of confectionery culture in Japan.
When it comes to mikan (mandarin oranges), it is no exaggeration to say that they are now Japan's representative fruits. If you visit the Kii-Route and leave without stopping by Kitsumoto Shrine, the origin of Mikan's history, it'd be a real bummer!
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【 Fujishiro Toshita Oji (Imperial Palace Lawn) 】
↓1.5km, about 25 minutes
【 Prince Kitsumoto 】
↓0.7km, about 15 minutes
【 Tokorosaka Oji (Kitsumoto Shrine) 】
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4-1. Enjoying Mikan
After lunch, cross the second pass and head further south (it is recommended to take regular breaks along the way) and you will eventually arrive at JR Kii-Miyahara Station, the destination of this route.
Furthermore, about a 10-minute walk from JR Kii-Miyahara Station, there is a "Mikan no Ki", a direct shop of Ito Farm known for Arida mikan and citrus products.
Depending on the season, the shop is filled with a variety of fresh mikan and processed products. They offer a range of gourmet items that fully utilize the flavor of mikan, such as mikan burgers, juice tastings, and mikan parfaits. It is truly a blissful space where you can fully enjoy the charm of mikan!
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Before you head back, be sure to visit the shop and enjoy the locally famous mikan that this region is proud of!
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4-2. Chohoji Temple
When descending from the summit of the second pass (Haino Pass), this route is especially recommended for those interested in Japanese history and shrines. By deviating slightly from the original south-bound route and heading west towards JR Shimotsu Station, you will arrive at the historic Chohoji Temple.
Chohoji Temple, located in Shimotsu Town, in Kainan City, Wakayama Prefecture, is an ancient temple founded in the mid-Heian period (around year 1000) by the imperial decree of Emperor Ichijo. The main hall, the pagoda, and the main gate are all designated as national treasures, and the temple is known as the family temple of the Kishu Tokugawa Clan (a temple with ancestral graves and for memorial services).
In spring, cherry blossoms and hydrangeas bloom beautifully, making it a valuable cultural property that conveys the cultural charm of the Heian period to the present day.
*As of February 2025, Chohoji Temple is not open to visitors due to a previous landslide disaster.
Please check the website for details.
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summary
In this article, we introduced some spots around one of the routes of the Kumano Kodo Kii-Route.
If you walk the route from Kainsan Station (Kainan City) to Kii-Miyahara Station (Arida City), the standard time required is approximately 7-hours (walking distance 14.4km). Therefore, it is recommended to start around 8:30 in the morning. This way, you can arrive at JR Kii-Miyahara Station in the early afternoon, leaving plenty of time to take the train back to Osaka.
By managing your time, you can leisurely enjoy mikan and also relax in the nearby hot springs. Walking the ancient road is not just about moving from one place to another, but by experiencing Japan's traditions and scenery with all your senses. The charm of the Kii-Route can be fully explored during the calm seasons from autumn to winter.
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